Spending ten days in a country that I knew next to nothing about was not how I envisioned my college study abroad experience.

Like many others, I always pictured myself in Italy or Spain for an entire semester, and while I’d still love to go to those countries, I don’t think I’ll ever get the chance to experience India in the way I did last year. I mean, who just up and goes to India? I couldn’t pass up that opportunity. So, I went, and this is (a very condensed version of) what I saw, learned, and experienced in the most beautiful country in the world.

People

India has a lot of people. Its population is set to surpass China’s in less than a decade, making it the most populated country in the world. That became apparent as soon as we stepped off the plane. Never in my life have I seen so many people — crammed into vehicles, running through crowded streets, and swarming marketplaces like there was no tomorrow. I’d look to the right and see a massive temple with scores of worshippers, and when I turned to the left, there were hundreds of tents on the side of the road — housing those who Indian society has deemed “untouchable.” The caste system, though made illegal by law, is alive and well in Indian culture.

One thing that binds most Indians together is their fascination with Americans — each of us were stopped and asked for pictures frequently, no matter the time or the place.

Another thing that unites the people is Hinduism, and a staggering 80% of Indians identify as practicing Hindus. Nowhere was this more apparent than in the holy city of Varanasi, where thousands make their pilgrimage to bathe in the River Ganges. In Hinduism, the Ganges is personified as the goddess Gaṅgā, and the water is believed to have purification powers that bestow heavenly blessings on those who bathe in it. We didn’t get to bathe in the Ganges, mostly because it’s heavily polluted (and our professor knew someone who got meningitis from sticking their hand in it). But we did get to take boat rides at sunrise and sunset, and we were able to sit in on a worship ceremony at the banks of the iconic waters with hundreds of people — which was more than enough to make up for not taking a dip in the river.

Places

I’m convinced that nowhere in the world has as many creative and beautiful ancient monuments than India. In any given Indian city, there are bound to be tons of very old palaces, forts, religious temples, or just regular buildings that were built a crazy long time ago.

Of the many places we visited, my favorite was the Amber Fort in Jaipur. We got to ride an elephant (that was treated humanely!) to get there, which automatically put it at the top of my this-is-too-cool list. There’s a palace of mirrors inside the fort and lots of gorgeous places to see the view — it was, in short, a dream.

Then, of course, we visited India’s most famous structure, the Taj Mahal. Let me be the first to say, it’s smaller than you think. That doesn’t take away from its beauty though, and I’ll never forget the feeling of walking through the archway and the fog clearing to reveal the most beautiful building in the world. Pictures don’t do the intricately-carved marble justice — it definitely deserves its spot on the Seven Wonders of the World list.

While each building we went to was amazing in its own way, the two places we visited that really left an impact on us were Sheroes Hangout and a school for Dalit (untouchable) children. Sheroes is owned and operated by women who have survived acid attacks, and they are, in a word, phenomenal. In India, acid attacks are most often carried out against women because of disputes, rejected marriage proposals, spurned sexual advances, and most horrifically, so that their husband may take another wife (and her dowry). Indian society values a woman’s beauty above all else, and so if the woman survives, her disfigurement is enough for her to be shunned by society. The beautiful women of Sheroes are forcing their society to see women as empowered and strong, and they prove every day that women are capable of so much more than being a wife and mother. Visiting Sheroes and listening to the stories of the amazing ladies that have poured their lives into it is something I’ll remember forever.

The school for “untouchable” children brought tears to my eyes the minute we walked in the gate. It doesn’t discriminate based on social status or wealth, and any child can come for free any day of the year. Volunteers and donations keep the school afloat, and during most days, the older students actually teach the younger ones. The children were so eager to show off their English to us. Any chance I had of hiding my tears totally disappeared when a sweet little girl named Hena told me, very shyly, that she wanted to be a dancer when she grew up. It was so impactful to see the effort that went into helping these kids have a better life, and I am incredibly grateful that we were able to visit them.

Culture & Society

The buildings aren’t the only thing about India that are ancient. Many traditions and cultural behaviors have been carried on through centuries, including the caste system. Though technically illegal, it is very clear among citizens and even to tourists what people belong to which caste, and it’s truly heartbreaking to see Dalit children run to you and beg for money. That’s why the aforementioned school is so important — with each generation, the caste system is getting closer to being lost to time.

One of the most sobering moments of the trip came at sunset on the Ganges in Varanasi. I mentioned that we saw many people bathing in the river, but we were also witness to the funeral traditions that take place on the banks of the river. We saw the dead bodies, covered by a shroud, burning, as their relatives mourned around them, and when the body was no more, the ashes were released into the water.

No women are allowed to participate in that ritual, nor are they allowed to worship certain gods and goddesses, or go into specific temples. But, Indians are making strides toward change, and their culture is advancing almost as fast as their population.

India is a complex, gorgeous, culture-shock inducing place that I never thought I would see in person. Being able to go and experience the magic of it all was an experience I wouldn’t trade for anything, and I would recommend India to anyone who wants to get outside of their comfort zone and learn.

Dhanyawad for reading, and…

Be well, Auburn.

Photography: Hannah S.